Bury to Bremen
1000 Mile Sponsored Walk For Multiple Sclerosis Research

Walking one thousand miles in six weeks with a moderately heavy back pack and with only two days break, was really one of the most physically demanding things that I have ever done, especially so during the first and the last few days. A few days into the walk I realised that the months I had spent training beforehand were sadly inadequate. I'd done a great deal of walking, but mainly short distances for a few hours at a time. As I racked up the miles, though, it also became apparent that this wouldn't matter beyond those first few days. The feet soon hardened and the blisters disappeared altogether within the week. I must add here that a gift of a pair of '1000 mile socks' which I received from Councillor Norah Dolphin, Leader of Cheshire County Council, who walked with me for a while in Holmes Chapel, stood me in good stead for the rest of the journey. Thank you again Councillor Dolphin for your thoughtful gift and your kind-hearted support.

During the last few days, heading for Bremen, a different, and unexpected problem occurred when the quadriceps muscles (above the knees) started to burn, and consequently it took a little longer each day to reach my destination. By the time I arrived in the 1200 year old, free Hanseatic city of Bremen, I felt as though I could sleep for a similar number of years. At the same time I was feeling regretful that this walk had ended, but I was also looking forward to planning the next. On arriving in Bremen I was dumbfounded to meet my wife and my mum for the first time in six weeks; they had flown out to Bremen, unbeknown to me, to walk the last few yards with me. The terrific Mercure Hotel Hanseatic Bremen wined, dined, and accommodated us all as their guests for the next two nights.

At 4:45 in the morning on September 1st 1939, Hitler ordered hostilities against Poland to begin. In response, Great Britain and France declared war on Germany on September 3, at 11:00 AM and at 5:00 PM, respectively.
World War II had begun.

Then it happened - the long awaited day. On June 6th, 1944, the Allies landed on the coast of Normandy; and all of Europe held its breath as they began to drive the German army back towards the Rhine. In August, mysterious radio messages began to be repeated again and again on certain wavelengths:
'This buzzing makes one dizzy.'
'Nancy has a crick in her neck.'
'Gaby is going to lie down on the grass.'
Hearing these messages, the F.F.I., the French Secret Resistance Army, immediately stepped up their incessant guerilla-warfare against the Germans, ruthlessly sabotaging anything and everything that might be of any immediate military use to them - roads, railway lines, bridges, telegraph posts - until everyday life ground to a tense, expectant standstill.
(From the book 'For Love of a Rose' by Antonia Ridge)

Monday 19th April:
Bucklow Hill to Stone (A50/A34)
Through Knutsford, Holmes Chapel, Newcastle-under-Lyme.

We set off fairly early, as planned, this morning after a photo call with the Lions in the centre of town, and we made steady progress in the sunshine to Holmes Chapel, or Church Hulme, as it is also known - derived from Hulm or Holm, meaning rising ground (and that rising ground doesn't half make your legs ache when you're walking up it at speed) arriving at the Library just slightly later than our scheduled 11.30am meet with Councillor Norah Dolphin, Leader of Cheshire County Council, who had travelled to Holmes Chapel to give her support and walk with us for a short distance. When we arrived at the Library, Councillor Dolphin greeted us and presented me with two donations for the Myelin Project, and the pair of 1000 Mile socks, and we were photographed for an article in the local newspaper. Sheila Kane, a Librarian, told me of a friend of hers who was struggling to cope with the effects of MS. As Sheila was telling me, I could see that she too was struggling to deal with the way the MS was affecting her friend, as I recognised the same anguish in her eyes that I had felt myself on countless occasions while witnessing the ferociousness of the way MS has lashed out at my wife, Gwen.

We didn't make it as far as Stone today. The furthest we could make was the outskirts of Newcastle-under-Lyme, approximately twelve miles short. We were scheduled to be at the Town offices in Newcastle at 4.30pm but we didn't arrive there until six. The Mayor, Raymond Slater, and Mayoress, Christine, very kindly waited for us and offered us tea and sandwiches. After viewing the splendid civic regalia in the Mayor’s Parlour, (two silver maces dating back to 1680 are still used at every Borough Council meeting), the Mayor presented me with a very fine ash tray on which, in gold foil, is the boroughs crest and the words "The Loyal and Ancient Borough Newcastle-under-Lyme" (the Borough dates back almost one thousand years). The motto reads "Constantia Scientia Prudentia" - By steadfastness, knowledge and foresight. The motto combines 'Constantia' from the motto of the former Borough, 'Prudentia' from that of the Rural District Council, and 'Scientia' in reference to the University of Keele. Newcastle was named after a new castle, funnily enough, that was built in the twelfth century to defend the area against attacks from the Welsh borders and to protect Royal lands from claims to the throne. ‘Lyme’ derives either from the Lyme Brook that flows through the town or from the lime forest that covered a large part of land in the medieval period. The main road through the centre of Newcastle was also the scene of massive troop movements during WW2. After the tour we were escorted in comfort and style in the Mayoral car to our accommodation, Peacock Hay Guest House, close to the point where we ended the days walk.

Tuesday 20th April:
Stone to Wolverhampton (A34/A449)
Through Stafford, Penkridge.

Not having made it to Stone last night, we set off from just outside Newcastle slightly earlier than planned. It was a glorious, sunny day again. Along the London Road we were stopped by a group of boys from St John Fisher Catholic High School who put some of their pocket money in our collection tubs; thanks again lads. Just through Newcastle we detoured onto a B road, to avoid the noise and fumes of the rush hour traffic, into some beautiful countryside. Later today I was scheduled to meet with Trevor Jones of Wolverhampton Lions Club who would accompany me to the Civic Centre to be welcomed into the City by the Mayor, John Rowley. Pat Quirk, whose wife was badly with MS, was also going to walk with me for the last few miles into Wolves, but sadly we never met up because we were still hours behind and I had to call for backup (thanks Dom) to drive us into the City to keep our appointment with the Mayor.

Mayor Rowley presented me with a cheque for the Myelin project and asked me to pass on his compliments to the other Mayors that I met on my journey. I was then driven back to the same spot I finished walking, and still had a good four hours walk back to Wolves. It was 8.30pm before I made it to the Connaught Hotel on Tettenhall Road, the venue for a most enjoyable meal, in the company of the munificent Lions, and point of accommodation for this evening, all of which had been paid for by the Wolverhampton Lions, who that evening also presented me with a cheque for the Myelin Project.

Wednesday 21st April:
Wolverhampton to Upton Upon Severn (A449)
through Stourbridge, Kidderminster, Worcester, onto B4424

I was on my own this morning. Greg had organised his transport back to Bury, and was working on a good excuse to present to his tutor for taking the last three days off college unannounced. I'm not sure what excuse he came up with, but he must have hobbled into college the next day, footsore from the eighty mile hike up hill and down dale, so whatever excuse he came up with I'm sure it was readily accepted.

At around lunch time I received a call from Danny Kelly of BBC West Midlands, who wanted to talk about the walk on his programme. The wind was howling and it had just started to rain, so I climbed over a wall and sheltered behind it in a field full of sheep so that the wind wasn't interfering with the mobile. The first thing he asked me was what football team I supported, but by the sound of his voice he had an ulterior motive for asking, so, unsure of what the outcome might be, I wouldn't let on. He persisted, and even accused me of being a Liverpool supporter. Come on Danny, that was a bit below the belt! Thanks again for your genuine interest in the walk and for the excellent live coverage, and not least for your donation to the Myelin Project.

Now it was pouring down, and for the rest of the day, until about an hour before I arrived in Worcester, that's all it did. Still, I had a good set of waterproofs, generously provided by Regatta, so I put my head down and stepped up the pace. First stop in Worcester was to be the Cardinal's Hat in the City centre, from where I had received a very welcome invite for food and drink (not necessarily in that order) from the lovely Austrian owner, Andrea (on the left in the photo). After an excellent meal I had the heady pleasure of sampling each one of the beers that Andrea imports from her home country. The Cardinal's Hat was terrific; one of the friendliest bars I've been in, and I would unhesitatingly recommend a visit to anyone who finds themselves in Worcester with a thirst and a penchant for good company. The Cardinals Hat is on Friar Street, not far from the Cathedral. A special thank you is also due to Allison Panniers of Worcester Racecourse for sending me two complimentary Club Members' badges to auction or raffle for a meeting of the winners choice at Worcester Racecourse.

It was almost 11.00pm before I left Worcester, so there wasn't much chance of making Upton upon Severn tonight.

Thursday 22nd April:
Worcester to Stroud
through Gloucester (A4173)

Grim determination took over this morning to make up the miles that I should have covered yesterday. It was a hard slog too. There were some steep hills to contend with, but the beautiful countryside was an added inspiration, though yet again it was pouring down heavens hard on and off. I was looking forward to reaching Gloucester, "the Crossroads of England and the gateway to the west of England", later today as I was enthralled by its rich historic past. Alas, my itinerary would only afford me a miserly quarter of an hour to look around the fabulous Cathedral, and no time to enjoy the City centre, or the Historic Docks - used for the first two Harry Potter movies and The Onedin Line. At least I was now back on schedule, and I headed south out of the City towards the welcome sight of blue sky and sunshine.

Friday 23rd April:
Stroud to Bath via Corsham

It was a glorious morning, so I took the B roads towards Corsham. Such a lovely day didn't deserve to be trespassed upon by the noise of traffic and acridity of fumes. I was heading south east towards Malmesbury, England's Oldest Borough, reputedly established in 880 AD. The rolling landscape was aflare with the reflection of the sun on the rape and the gentle breeze, and not a sound other than that of the birds and the occasional distant sound of horses hooves. At around 6.00pm I arrived at the World Heritage Site of Bath.

On Saturday morning, at 8.45am sharp, the Severnside Military Vehicle Trust descended on Bath on a mission with half a dozen WW2 MVs. On the way in they efficiently dismissed a traffic wardens attempt at turning them away, and promptly blocked off Bath Street near the Roman Baths. The weather was glorious, the hottest day of the year so far, and the vehicles were a formidable presence in the centre of such a historic City, as were the Trust members in their WW2 uniforms, armed with rifles and knives. The attention that the vehicles and the Trust members attracted brought in £394 in donations for MS research, and a visit from Superman, who flew in to lend a hand with the fund-raising. At the same time, another mild mannered reporter from the Bath Chronicle was at the scene taking photos.

At one point during the day a group of anti war protesters started shouting at the Trust members. How ludicrous, I thought, for such a dedicated group of people who are keeping a memory alive of a period in history that is vital knowledge to our future generations, and who had gone out of their way to help raise much needed funds for MS research, to be verbally abused by rowdies who hadn't even bothered to ask what their mission was before they started haranguing them. ('Avoid loud persons, they are a vexation to the spirit.')

One of the highlights of the day for me was to meet the beautiful Stephanie Millward who came to Bath to show her support. Stephanie's dream to swim for Britain in the Olympics was wrecked by MS. She was 17 and training with the British Olympic squad when MS struck. Stephanie, you made my day. Thank you.

I also have David and Lion Dawn to thank, not only for my accommodation in Bath, but for going out of their way to make my stay so enjoyable, and for helping to get things started in the centre of Bath on Saturday. It was one awesome weekend in a bustling and historic city made all the more amazing by everyone I met there.

Sunday 25th April:
Bath to Shrewton (Salisbury Plain) (A36)
Through Warminster, Chitterne (B390)

I left Bath with an escort. Ian (MVT) carried my back pack on his WW2 Harley Davidson and showed me the quickest way out of Bath. By dinner time Ian had turned back, and I was in Warminster enjoying a foot spa, Chicken Pasta and a cool beer at the Warminster Bowls Club! Brian Hill, Hon. Secretary, had arranged this for me and, in addition, the club members gave a donation to MS research. Brian had also arranged for the local paper to be there to highlight the walk and write about The Myelin Project and The Accelerated Cure Project.

Refreshed, and engines stoked, I headed out of Warminster towards Winterbourne Stoke. Catherine Lockwood of Scotland Lodge Farm had emailed me to say "If you are in need of accommodation I will happily give you a room for the night(s) you are in our area plus breakfast/sandwiches etc. I do hope this will be of some help and I wish you well in your sponsored walk. Take the Salisbury road out of Shrewton (only road through) and just opposite the Pub you will see a small road on the right signed to Winterbourne Stoke. Walk down this road and in the dip at the bottom of the hill you will come to a small "lay-by" entrance on the right with access to the bottom of our property. Go through the gate and up the track, with horses in field to your left and eventually you will see the house and conservatory (after passing the stables). That is us."

Scotland Lodge Farm is, in every way, every bit as beautiful as it sounds. Thank you Catherine and William.

Today was to be another tremendous day. On the way into Salisbury I was met by Steven Gee, who has MS. He steered me towards the centre of Salisbury, and onto the town square, where I was greeted by Mayor Bobbie Chettleburgh, Jenny Gee, Chairman of the Salisbury and District Branch MS Society, Annette Sands, MS Society Salisbury branch president, and South Wiltshire Primary Care Trust MS specialist co-ordinator Vanessa Hall. They had set up a stand in the middle of the square displaying details of my walk, and had arranged for Spire FM to put out an appeal for donations live on air. I was also treated to my first chippy since leaving Bury; an excellent chippy dinner it was too.

Whilst I was sat resting my feet, I heard a voice say 'You made it then!' It was Catherine from Scotland Lodge Farm.

Heading towards Southampton I was to meet up with Councillor Steven Broomfield, who had contacted me to say that this evening he was to attend a dinner, which would have as it's guest Dr Liam Fox MP, then Chairman of the Conservative Party, and would I like to meet him? When I arrived in Hedge End, Southampton, Councillor Broomfield said 'Oh, by the way, we have found you some accommodation for the night, it's not a bad place', and then he turned into the splendid Botleigh Grange!

Liam Fox was addressing the Eastleigh Conservative Club there. I was introduced to them by Conor Burns, and I was able to explain my assignment and ask for their help. They very kindly donated just over £250 to the Myelin Project, and I thoroughly enjoyed a thought-provoking evening, accentuated by Dr. Fox's speech; Eastleigh Conservatives were the tops, the meal was excellent, the surroundings beautiful, and the accommodation swish. Yet again I was in awe at the support heaped upon me, in aid of the Myelin Project and the Accelerated Cure Project, by such charitable people.

After D-day, Southampton was the main port of embarkation for troops leaving Britain for the European theatre of war. It is recorded that three and a half million soldiers left the port, my father being amongst them. Two million of them were Americans. One can only wonder at the amazing logistics of it all.

On 15th September 1944, after training with The Black Watch in the mountains of the Scottish Highlands, my father was transferred to D Company, 156 Brigade, 7th Battalion The Cameronians, part of the 52nd Lowland Division in Field-Marshal Montgomery's 21st British Land Army, where he met Jack Rafferty, from Aberdeen, who was to become his lifelong friend. After being hidden in obscurity in the early war years, the Lowland men, commanded by Major-General Edmund Hakewell Smith, became recognised as one of the finest fighting formations in the field.

For month after month these sturdy men trained at altitudes averaging three to four thousand feet above sea level, making forced marches across the very roof of Scotland in weather that would have discouraged less determined troops. Gradually the whole intricate system of mountain warfare became first place with them. Long hardened with physical fitness standards which surpassed any other fighting troops in the country, these men could make long forced marches over difficult country with three inch mortars slung from their backs, and they could climb with these loads using the science they had been taught by Norwegian experts. They were fit (my father was graded A1+). They were mountain troops, and the World knows to what extent those long days of hard training stood the Lowlanders in good stead in the dreaded mud swamps of a badly flooded Holland..

On the 16th October 1944, 156 Brigade, 7th Battalion The Cameronians (Scottish Rifles) travelled by train to Fareham, and set sail from Southampton aboard the SS Lady of Mann to Ostend.

Some of 156 Brigade (right) Click to enlarge.

For the ROLL OF HONOUR of the 7th Battalion
The Cameronians (Scottish Rifles) Click here

The walk from Southampton to Dover was hard and extremely wet; the rain was unrelenting, eventually getting the better of all my waterproof clothing. On the way to Dover, in St. Leonards on Sea, I was to meet Hastings Mayor Phil Scott, Mrs. Scott, Helen Bird - Mayors P.A., John Bartholemew - the Town Crier, who gave me a gift of a quaich, and Gladys Stewart, Chair of the Hastings and Rother MS Branch who, to my surprise and delight, told me she had arranged to send a donation of £500 through my initiative to Professor Compston at Addenbrooks Hospital, Cambridge University, to be used towards his 3 year project for relapse-remitting MS (people already treated had shown improvements in disability). I was shattered from the last two days walk in the pouring rain, but still thoroughly enjoyed a unique evening among distinguished company.

Saturday 1st May
Dover to Dunkirk

Courtesy of Norfolkline, and thanks to Christopher Kirkham, I was bound for Dunkirk, though it was touch and go for a while whether I would make the crossing on time. After being advised to arrive an hour early at the Norfolkline desk, I actually arrived ten minutes before I was due to sail, and very nearly didn't board, which would have been most inconvenient for Mssr. Nordine Henni, and Mssr. Nicolas Vermaut of Dunkirk town Council, who were meeting me on arrival at Dunkirk. It turned out there was no need to have worried, as one of the Norfolkline staff drove me to the gangplank and I boarded just in time. Once on board I was greeted by the Purser who treated me to lunch and refreshments. The crossing was one of the smoothest I've been on, and the whole experience was first class. Thank you Norfolkline.

Across the water and to Malo le Bain